I have designed my pattern by looking at many, many pictures online, to get a good idea of what a gambeson should look like. I have looked at other people’s. Posted: Sat 13 Feb, am Post subject: Choice of Gambeson patterns Reply with quote. Hi, I’m preparing to do a suit of mid-late 15th Century armor. Period Pattern ™ No Medieval Military Garments. Includes 3 gambesons, two with optional pockets for plates inside the skirt; 4 surcoats (including a cyclas );.

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Hose were almost universally worn, whether very loose, thinner and more fitted, or skin-tight; hose worn while fighting could be padded in places. Observe where your body flexes, this is where to end the seam. Most had to make do with padded garments called gambesons to keep pagtern save from swords, daggers, arrows, and other dangers they encountered. These garments go well with capes from Period Pattern no.

Heavier padding also gives the disadvantage of making it hard to feel blows. This split provides better movement, and improves your agility, it is essential if your gambeson is any longer than down to waist. I also used my own T-shirt as a base shape, modified to look like a gambeson. Similar considerations apply to shaping padded garments as do normal ones. Either the tubes can follow the line of the shaping, or they can remain straight.

But even those who could afford armor had to wear something underneath metal armor, for comfort; this was usually padded. Seams parallel to tubes are unproblematic, and merely leave a small strip unpadded, depending on how close the stitching of the seam can be to the two tubes. Firstly- it was easier and took half the time, than if I did it closely together. One of the major disadvantages of padding is that washing it is a nuisance and time consuming.

A heavily stuffed, or heavily used padding with almost certainly burst a few tubes at some point. Heavier padding has the disadvantage of actually greater weight, it traps heat better and is stiffer.


But I suppose you could add brigantine spaulders over those: I also love travelling,especially when it also involves any of my other interests. Mockup of the Torso. I also made one pathern myself to see how it worked. Measure the waist and then taking these measurements form a mockup of a skirt to go from the torso mock up to 3 inches above your knees.

A lot of it is pretty speculative from the historical point of view as there are no extant bits of padding from our period. However there is a chance of the gsmbeson being gradually turned into felt though use compression and damp… double sided felt: I just saw some excellent examples of Celtic quilt patterns in the movie Elizabeth, Hmmmm For the seam edges I like to use Quilt tape.

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The stitch you can see runs about 3cm away from the edge, this is deliberate, as it makes it easier to put them together later and provides better resilience to the finished piece. A number of contemporary depictions seem to show spaulders made in a similar globose form. You don’t want your legs to be limited in movement by your Gambeson. Thanks, Dave De gustibus non disputandum est.

The finished garment will look much nicer and you can pick exactly what color you want. Take gambesonn time with paper before you cut cloth and this should work well. Now all the pieces are seamed you can start sewing gambeon channels for the wool this is done by first measuring 3CM out from the arm gambsson seam following the curve of the seam so you create a 3cm “pocket” following the curve of the armhole you want to make 4 of these. I had actually been considering the padded shoulder version shown in the Reconstructing History link; a photo of that style with a brigandine is here: It seems to behave similarly to wool, but without the risk of being converted into felt over time.


If you want to discuss contents of this page – this is the easiest way to do it. I have made custom orders with a standing collar. Using your coat size chest as a starting point, sizes run as follows; 38 regular, regular, regular, regular and regular. When sewing this stuff sew it one side at a time finishing with the front the pretty side.

My own experiments regarding the contraction problem give suggest that: Measure your chest from the widest point to directly underneath each arm.

Guide to Padded kit – Wikiwood

This is indicated by the cross hatched areas on the side of the Gambeson patterns. I use 90mm wide stips of 2mm aluminium but you could gambeon heavy leather or steel which you can buy in lengths from hardware stores.

Now, that I have out the three pieces together, they looked like this: How to edit pages?

On experimenting it turns out that cotton wool is remarkably good padding – firmer than poly-cotton batting – and when compressed actually quite resistent to cutting. Halldor the Viking The adventures of an Early Medieval re-enactor.

There are a few that seem to be much more flexible garments with dotted lines of stitching in the same pattern gambeso tubes.

The longer a burst patch is left the more the padding from the two tubes merge and the harder it will be to repair the tube.

Sun 14 Feb, 9: I left about 5mm of hanging edge, for stitching the pieces together later on. The problem is that the tubes of the front and back portions tend to press together and pull the seam apart especially when the garment is not being worn. You can see that again, there is about 5mm left of just linen edge.